Questions 2

The X Series engines X45/X60/X95 were all intended to run on 2-cell LiPo (not supplied) battery and they run the best on these.  

A 2-cell LiFe is not enough volts and will not work.

It is technically ok to use a 3-cell LiFe battery but a 3-cell LiPo is too high a voltage and the electronics will struggle with the higher power dissipation on the circuit board, even if it does work.

For best results stick with the 2-cell LiPo, at least 2000mAh+ or more, and at least 25C rating.

Always disconnect the battery from the ECU for charging.

Powering up the receiver to the ECU will also close a switch in the Hub to turn on the ECU battery supply. Equally the ECU will retain the battery power until the engine has completed its cooldown cycle after running, even if the receiver has been turned off.

So it is not needed to keep the receiver on until the engine has finished cooling, it will turn off automatically.

The best fuel to use on the "X" series engines is Kerosene, Paraffin, Jet A, Jet A1 and similar. Mix with 4% of the recommended oil.

The engine can use pump diesel where kerosene is not available but it does not run as sweetly and the smell is dreadful.

In the START menu there is a switch for KERO / DIESEL which you can use to switch fuels. The engine default fuel setting is "KERO".

Changing the fuel setting over ripples a range of changes through the ECU automatically to best optimise the ECU to running on the fuel selected, so you don't need to remember and work through changing all the settings yourself.

But in all cases, Kero is the preferred fuel and definitely not mucky heating oil someone is getting rid of....!

If you have a fuel for other jets you run, which has 5% oil mixed, you can also use this, no need to keep two lots of fuel. The different oil content is so small it make no difference to running or engine life.

OIL
In thejetworkshop we use red coloured Carlube 2-stroke XL oil, as sold in stores such as B&Q, Halfords etc, mix at 4%. The Power Model Jet Oil oil sold by Deluxe Materials also works well and is recommended by Xicoy - I tested it when I was there!

Once you have plumbed in and wired up a new install you need to prime the fuel system for the first start.

New systems always have a few small bits and particles, so don't connect the engine immediatly, leave the engine end of the fuel feed open and hold it into a jar or paper towel. Connect ECU battery and turn on the transmitter and receiver (make sure trim and stick is low).

Be sure the pump plug is correctly orientated (see label) and pushed fully home, it goes in quite a way and can be a bit tight sometimes.

Using the display, enter the INFO menu and proceed to the PUMP PRIME screen. Press the "+" button to start the pump running slowly and watch the fuel moving gently from tank to engine. Let it dribble for a few second to clear all the loose bits then turn off pump ("-" button) and connect to engine.

You are now ready to do your start. Give the fuel filter a good shake during the starting to clear it of bubbles, same if you have an air trap. Don't use felt clunk in tank, it will release bits of fluff which always seem to find their way into the pump and strangle the tiny gears!

The engine uses tiny bearings which are fed a tiny amount of the fuel for lubrication. The rear bearing is very close to the heavy turbine wheel which holds in a lot of heat for some time after running.

The best procedure for shutdown is after you have completed all your taxiing etc, to restrain the model and gently rev the engine to about 1/3rd throttle and hold it for a count of 10 slowly, then quickly bring the trim to zero, followed by the throttle stick. This ensures the engine is running at its coolest and with a decent flow of lubrication through the bearings at the point you shut it off.

The engine at idle supplies almost no lube to the bearings, and runs a lot hotter, so leaving it to idle for extended times is not good for the engine.

Always rev to 1/3rd for 10 secs before shutdown, your engine will thank you!!